WHAT IS BIODYNAMIC WINE?

The catalyst for the existence of biodynamic, organic, natural, and sustainable wine can be traced back to the rise of industrial and chemical farming.

Farms used to be polycultures with a mix of different crops and farm animals that fed the owners of the property and, if the farm was large enough, town and city dwellers as well. During the industrial revolution in England (1760-1840) farms increased in size and began to specialize their focus on one product in order to feed the people who had migrated to the cities and towns to work in factories and supporting businesses – western hemisphere farms increasingly became monocultures. Then came the use of chemical fertilizers that saw a lot of advances at the beginning of the 20th C.

Rudolph Steiner: the godfather of Biodynamics

Farmers began to notice a decline in seed fertility, the vitality of crops and farm animal health and some blamed the use of chemicals and the increasingly monocultural aspect of industrial farming. Eventually it became noticeable enough that social organization began to take root in reaction. One such social gathering took place in 1924 when a group of German farmers approached Rudolph Steiner, a philosopher, asking for his perspective on agriculture based on his body of spiritual philosophy, Anthroposophy. Eight lectures were presented by Steiner from June 7-16th, 1924 titled ‘The Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture’. 

These lectures formed the basis of biodynamic farming. The Experimental Circle of Anthroposophical Farmers was immediately formed after the lectures, and they put Steiner’s theories into practice. A co-operative was formed in 1927 to market biodynamic produce and in 1928 the Demeter symbol was introduced and registered as a trademark and the first standards for Demeter quality control (controls for biodynamic farming) were formulated. This was the beginning of what is now Biodynamic Federation - Demeter International which was formed in 2020 when Demeter International and the International Biodynamic Association came together. The BFDI is an umbrella organization that supports its member organizations across 63 countries with 7,000 farmers and 250,000 hectares of land. It also owns the trademark for both "Demeter" and "Biodynamic" across the world.

Biodynamic Wine Vineyards

A biodynamic farm is a self-sufficient system that is looked upon as a living organism made up of a number of parts such as plants, animals, trees, insects, soil and people to name a few. These parts interact and provide solutions to issues such as fertility, soil health, disease and pest control from within the farm itself. The inspiration for this system of farming is the ecosystem in its original form where a diversity of plants, animals, soil and insects lived together to form a healthy, balanced whole. Practices such as cover crops, composting, crop rotation and integrating animals and insects into the farm promotes fertility and the health of the soil which in turn produces healthy plants. 

Biodynamic farming has two features which some people consider a bit unusual – the use of biodynamic preparations and performing tasks in relation to the astronomical calendar. “Biodynamic preparations are vitalising additions for soil and plants. As a kind of remedy for the earth, they also promote the growth and quality of the plants and animal health. For their production, plant, mineral and animal substances are combined and exposed to natural forces, and then returned to nature in a modified form." 

"Biodynamic preparations strengthen the quality of the compost by stabilising nitrogen and other nutrients, multiplying microbial diversity, and bringing more sensitivity to the composting process. They help to guide and regulate the decomposition and humus forming processes in the soil, and make plant nutrients (sulphur, potash, nitrogen, calcium, silica, phosphorus) available in the organic form needed for healthy plant growth." In plain English, biodynamic compost makes the soil healthy which in turn provides nutrients to the plants making them healthier which enables those plants to resist disease and pests.  

Using Cow Horns in Biodynamic farming

The spray preparations are “potentised liquid sprays that bring healing, vitality, and sensitivity to farms and gardens.” Horn manure spray is made from cow manure that has been buried in a cow horn during the winter. “Horn manure enhances the life of the soil and the relationship between soil and plants”. Horn silica spray is made from ground quartz buried in a cow horn during the summer. "Horn silica increases plant immunity, strengthens photosynthesis, and enhances ripening." Again, plain English - the sprays promote the health of the soil and plants. These sprays are prepared by rhythmic stirring in water and are then applied to plants or soil at specific times during the growing cycle or time of year. 

Biodynamic Calendars

This brings us to the astronomical calendar aspect of biodynamics. Isabelle Legeron in her book “Natural Wine: An Introduction to Organic and Biodynamic Wines Made Naturally” has provided one of the most relatable explanations of why the astronomical calendar is integral to biodynamics. Isabelle referenced an astronomer, Dr. Parag Mahajani. Dr Mahajani talked about the tides and the tremendous effects of the moon’s gravity on earth’s water. Since plants are mostly composed of water they are also affected by the gravity of the moon. The gravitational pull of the moon affects everything on earth but the bonding of molecules in solids is stronger than those in liquids or gases so the effects of gravity on solid matter such as buildings are less noticeable. 

It is for this reason that biodynamic farmers pay attention to the lunar calendar when performing tasks in the vineyard. Maria Thun, a biodynamic farmer and researcher from Germany, studied the influences of the position of the moon and stars on plants for more than 50 years. She discovered that in the growing cycle of plants “there were days or periods favorable to the cultivation of root, flower, leaf or fruit vegetables. This work produced the first biodynamic calendar published in 1963. Since then, researchers have continued to complete and refine it.” Biodynamic farmers consult the lunar calendar when performing tasks such as planting, pruning and even bottling wine. 

Biodynamic Federation - Demeter International

The information that I have sourced for my description of biodynamics has come primarily from the Biodynamic Federation - Demeter International organization and I have focused on the features that relate to growing grapes. There are a number of aspects of biodynamics that I have not touched upon such as animal husbandry, diversity in seeds and breeds, and their practices with respect to social and economic well-being to name a few. 

I have also focused on the practices in the vineyard. If a farm is biodynamic, is the product it produces biodynamic also? Not necessarily – for products such as wine there are two certifications that must be obtained for the wine to be considered biodynamic: Demeter Biodynamic Farm Standard and Demeter Wine Processing Standard. There are 14 Demeter Processing Standards that must be met “to ensure an unbroken chain of accountability from the farm to the finished product, and deliver a product that allows for the integrity and purity of the agricultural ingredients to define it.”

Look for Demeter & Biodyvin on wine labels

There is more than one organization based on the concepts introduced in Steiner's 1924 lecture series. Biodyvin, for example, was formed in 1995 and comprises only wine estates while Biodynamic Federation - Demeter International encompasses many different types of farms whose focus may be dairy or honey or chickens, etc. The difference between BFDI and Biodyvin is in the specifc practices that their members must follow to achieve accreditation.

The information provided here on biodynamic wine is just the tip of the iceberg. It is an interesting subject and there is a lot more information out there. Just let your fingers do the walking!

Shop online for Biodynamic Wine

Biodyanamic Wine, Veneto, Italy

Musella 2020 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso

This expression of Valpolicella Ripasso is dry, medium bodied and highly complex. Lots of dried fruit present from the ripasso method, along with fresh red fruit. Notes of red and black cherry, damson plum and black current. There are some notes of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg due to the use of oak barrel along with an underlying aroma of dark chocolate. The flavours are dense but the wine finishes long with a bright, refreshing acidity.

Biodyanamic Wine, Rioja Alta, Spain

Bodegas Moraza 2022 Rose, Bodegas Moraza

This rosé, made with 100% tempranillo grapes, is dry, medium bodied, and crisp with a light texture. You will find fresh red berries, tart cherries and herbs on the palate accompanied by notable minerality.

This article contains references and quotations from the following publications:

• Biodynamic Federation Demeter International, Biodynamic Preparations, accessed 11 February 2024

• Biodynamic Demeter Alliance, Biodynamic Principles & Practice, accessed 11 February, 2024

• Isabelle Legeron, “Natural Wine: An Introduction to Organic and Biodynamic Wines Made Naturally”, (CICO Books, 3rd Edition 2020)

• Vin-Satori.com, Merlin Salerno, “What is Biodynamic Wine?”, December 19, 2023, accessed 12 February, 2024

• Demeter USA, Demeter F.A.Q’s, accessed 12 February, 2024